Trish McMillan and Kristina Spaulding Being in a shelter exposes dogs to stress in myriad ways. Shelter dogs are plucked out of their environment and transported to a new and unfamiliar place. For some dogs, this may be an improvement over conditions of cruelty or neglect. For others, it may be a loss of space, freedom, social interaction, and/or the creature comforts of the previous home. For all dogs, it’s a major change. When they arrive at the shelter, they are placed in a kennel, often surrounded by other frightened or stressed animals. They are handled by unfamiliar people in unpredictable ways. Often they are moved from intake and led through a gauntlet of barking dogs to be put in another kennel. Periodically, people may come to walk them outside. Other times, they may be taken out and subjected to bathing or other procedures. They never know what’s going to happen from one time to the next—it might be a pleasant event or it might be an unpleasant one. Imagine how you would feel if you went through this experience! The shelter experience can be very stressful for dogs. This raises potential welfare concerns, and many shelters are understandably interested in reducing stress in dogs. In addition, shelters often house dogs that are scared, aggressive, or otherwise difficult to manage. This causes stress and safety concerns for staff and volunteers. There are many things shelter staff can do to make the shelter experience less stressful for dogs. This chapter will discuss how to reduce stress while handling shelter dogs, including how to handle potentially dangerous dogs safely and defensively. It will also cover ways to make euthanasia as stress‐free as possible. There are many other steps that shelters can take to reduce stress including facility design and management, enrichment, and training. See Chapters 10, 11, and 12 for more information on those topics. Before discussing handling techniques, a closer look at the concept of “stress” is warranted. Stress occurs when an animal faces a challenge (McEwen 2017). This challenge triggers a stress response that activates two systems—the sympathetic‐adrenal‐medullary (SAM) and hypothalamic‐pituitary‐adrenal (HPA) systems (Sapolsky et al. 2000; Lupien et al. 2009). Immediately upon exposure to a stressor, the SAM system is activated. The adrenal glands release epinephrine and norepinephrine, which cause a number of physiological responses, such as pupil dilation and increased heart rate and respiration. In addition, the HPA axis responds by releasing stress hormones. Corticotropin‐releasing hormone (CRH) and arginine vasopressin (AVP) are released by the hypothalamus. They signal the pituitary gland to release adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH). ACTH signals the release of glucocorticoids (aka stress hormones) from the adrenal cortex (Lupien et al. 2009). In dogs, the primary stress hormone is cortisol. The HPA axis takes a little longer (several minutes) to respond than the SAM system. The exact timing of the stress response varies widely. However, in many cases it takes 20–30 minutes for cortisol levels to peak, and they can remain elevated for 90 minutes or more (Beerda et al. 1996; Dickerson and Kemeny 2004). The triggering event that causes the challenge to baseline is called a stressor. Examples of a challenge to baseline include being hit by a car, going for a run, or catching a virus. These are all physical stressors. There are also psychosocial stressors. Psychosocial stressors are stressors that involve psychological or social factors but no actual physical perturbation. Examples of psychosocial stressors include meeting a new person or dog, being attacked without being physically injured, lack of control over the environment, or social isolation. The activation of the SAM and HPA axes causes a number of physiological responses that prepare the animal for fight or flight (Lupien et al. 2009). Blood pressure, heart rate, and respiration increase, and stored energy is converted into glucose. Pupils dilate, sensory perception increases, and pain perception decreases. At the same time, systems that are not immediately necessary—such as immune function, growth, digestion, and reproduction—are shut down. All of these changes prepare the body for survival in the moment. Low to moderate levels of acute stress are generally considered beneficial and adaptive, as they help the animal cope with the immediate situation. However, extreme levels of acute stress or stress that is chronic can have serious and long‐lasting impacts on the physical and emotional health of the animal (Seeman et al. 1997; Beerda et al. 1999; Sánchez et al. 2001; Yamamoto et al. 2009; van der Kooij et al. 2014). Stress researcher Bruce McEwen (2017) groups stress into three categories: good, tolerable, and toxic. Good stress (or eustress) occurs when the animal experiences a challenge and is able to successfully cope with that challenge such that they experience a positive outcome. Tolerable stress happens when an animal experiences a challenge that is distressing at the time, but they are able to cope with that stress and do not suffer any negative long‐term consequences. The type of stress depends on the animal’s response to the stressor. Consider going to college. For many, this would be considered good stress. In this case, the college experience is challenging but is still very enjoyable for the individual and is beneficial in the long run. For others, college may be difficult and distressing. Despite this, they manage to pull through and earn their degree without any long‐term negative consequences. Experiences just about anyone would find distressing—such as the death of a family member—also fall into the category of tolerable stress as long as the individual is able to cope without showing a persistent deterioration in mental, emotional, or physical health. The type of stress that this chapter is focused on is toxic stress. Toxic stress is distressing and exceeds an animal’s ability to cope. As a result, they often suffer long‐term consequences to their emotional and physical health. This can include changes to the brain that will also make it more difficult for them to cope with future stressors. For the remainder of the chapter, references to “stress” will be referring to toxic stress. There is ample evidence that stress can increase the likelihood of maladaptive behavior down the road, so it’s very important that shelters implement strategies aimed at minimizing stress. Social and spatial restriction in dogs—as often occurs in shelters—have been associated with increased displays of aggression (Beerda et al. 1999). Chronic stress is widely accepted to cause a number of negative impacts on mental and physical health. In general, chronic stress has been linked to increased aggression, anxiety, and depression‐like behaviors in a variety of species (Sánchez et al. 2001; Wood et al. 2003; Zoladz et al. 2008; van der Kooij et al. 2014; Ménard et al. 2016). It has also been shown to impair social behavior, memory, and cognition (Schwabe et al. 2012; Nazeri et al. 2015; Sandi and Haller 2015) and enhance fear (Rau et al. 2005). Physical health can also be dramatically impacted in a number of ways including increased susceptibility to disease, slower healing, and shortened lifespan (Glaser and Kiecolt‐Glaser 2005; Dreschel 2010; Juster et al. 2010). This means that reducing stress will likely increase the emotional, mental, and physical well‐being of dogs in shelter care. Once a dog has an aversive experience in a particular context, that encounter influences their future behavior in that same context, even if the current experience is not itself unpleasant (Döring et al. 2009). This is called context learning. Another issue is that animals often show a more intense response to stress when they experience multiple triggers at once, or in quick succession. Trigger stacking occurs when stress accumulates due to the introduction of so many stressors in a short period of time that there is no opportunity for the animal to return to baseline (Edwards et al. 2019). Context learning and trigger stacking indicate that it is especially important to prevent or minimize stressful experiences in the first place, as they can have a cumulative effect. Because stressed animals may be more likely to react aggressively (Sandi and Haller 2015), using low‐stress techniques and defensive handling also increases safety for staff, volunteers, and shelter visitors. The shelter experience has the potential to be very stressful for dogs. They are placed in a crowded and unfamiliar environment with limited access to social interaction and restricted movement and freedom. Shelter dogs also require regular handling and medical care; even outside of a shelter or veterinary environment, these interactions and their associated contexts can be sources of fear, anxiety, and stress (Grandin 1998; Edwards et al. 2019). What does the research tell us about stress in shelter dogs? A number of studies have demonstrated that cortisol levels are elevated when dogs first enter the shelter (Protopopova 2016; Hennessy et al. 2020). However, after the first several days to a week, cortisol levels tend to gradually decrease until they return to baseline (Protopopova 2016). Does this mean dogs are no longer stressed? Not necessarily—interpretation of these results is complex. First, it is important to understand that cortisol alone cannot tell us about the well‐being of an animal. Cortisol levels are influenced by several factors in addition to stress. These factors include time of day, spay‐neuter status, age, and sampling method (Chmelíková et al. 2020). Furthermore, cortisol levels only indicate the activation of the stress response without providing any information on the animal’s emotional state. It seems clear that entering a shelter environment is stressful. However, cortisol levels do not indicate what type of stress (good, tolerable, or toxic) an animal is experiencing. Therefore, it’s not possible to make inferences about their emotional state or their welfare based solely on changes in cortisol. Because of this, it’s important that assessments of shelter dog welfare are not limited to measurements of cortisol levels. It is not yet clear why cortisol levels are returning to baseline. Under conditions of chronic stress, biological systems eventually become dysregulated (McEwen and Stellar 1993; Juster et al. 2010). One possible explanation is that the decrease in cortisol levels is an indication of a malfunctioning stress response system. It’s also possible that cortisol levels return to baseline because dogs are becoming habituated to the shelter environment and are no longer experiencing stress. Indeed, several studies have shown that cortisol levels in kenneled dogs remain responsive to acute triggers (e.g., restraint, venipuncture) and interventions (e.g., petting) (Tuber et al. 1996; Beerda et al. 1998; Coppola et al. 2006; Shiverdecker et al. 2013). This suggests that the stress response system is still responding normally. In addition, stress impacts individuals differently. Averaging cortisol levels together eliminates individual variation. Therefore, even if dogs on average are becoming less stressed, that doesn’t mean that none of the dogs are experiencing stress. Anyone with shelter experience knows that certain individual dogs can suffer greatly in a shelter environment. Other dogs may cope well with a shelter environment. There is also evidence from research that different dogs respond differently to an extended stay at a shelter (Hiby et al. 2006; Stephen and Ledger 2006). Aggressive and fearful dogs are often eliminated from study samples, and these may be the very individuals that are most susceptible to stress. The age and source of dogs are other factors that may impact an individual’s reaction to stress. In particular, dogs that are still undergoing development (puppies and adolescent dogs) and seniors are most susceptible to the effects of stress. In addition, there is evidence that the ability to cope with stress is influenced by an animal’s personality (Koolhaas 1999; Corsetti et al. 2018; Protopopova et al. 2019). Finally, dogs coming from particularly difficult environments, such as cruelty and neglect, may experience an increase in their quality of life after arriving at—and adjusting to—the animal shelter. In summary, much more research is needed to understand what is driving the decrease in cortisol levels after the first several days to a week at the shelter. There are three key points that can be taken from these data. First, the first week in the shelter appears to be particularly difficult for the population as a whole, so it’s important to target that week in an attempt to reduce stress levels. Second, certain individuals suffer more from the impacts of stress. Being able to identify these individuals will enable staff to target them for stress intervention programs. Shelters with limited staff and financial resources may not be able to administer comprehensive enrichment or training programs to every dog. If especially vulnerable individuals can be singled out, these individuals can receive the resources that are available. Finally, our understanding of how stress impacts dogs—and the individual characteristics that matter—is still incomplete, and additional research in this area is needed. One of the most important ways to keep ourselves, our coworkers, our adopters, and our animals safe is to become experts at reading canine body language. Early recognition of signs of arousal, fear, or aggression will allow for quicker intervention, a change in handling technique, and a reduction in the chances of a fearful or aggressive response. See Chapter 1 for more information on reading canine body language. Once a stressed dog is identified, how should a handler respond? The first step is to stop and reassess. What is causing the stress? What options are there for alleviating that stress? Is the procedure or activity absolutely necessary at this time? Responding to the dog’s emotional state means assessing needs versus wants. If the activity falls into the “want” rather than “need” category, perhaps it could be eliminated completely. In cases where potentially stressful experiences cannot be avoided, there are a number of tactics that can help to reduce stress in the dog. Is it something that needs to be done immediately? Or, if the dog will be undergoing an anesthetic event in the near future, could the procedure be done at that time? Is there something that could be changed—a different approach—that would reduce the dog’s stress? The following sections outline several different options for changing tactics to reduce or minimize stress in dogs. Shelters have varying levels of resources in terms of time, space, staff, volunteers, and money. Some of the following recommendations will be difficult or impossible for certain shelters to implement. Follow the recommendations that make the most sense for your shelter—even small changes can make a big difference! Being in a shelter often bombards dogs with several different stressors in quick succession, at least until they can adjust to their new environment. They are likely to be stressed even before reaching the shelter. Research on wild animals has shown that translocation creates stress in four primary ways: capture, captivity, transport, and release (Dickens et al. 2010). This is even more true for animal shelters where some percentage of the dogs were stray before entering the shelter environment. Even dogs that are surrendered by their owners experience some degree of capture by being placed in a crate, carried in, or having a leash attached. As described in Section 8.3, evidence suggests that stress levels are highest during the first week of the shelter stay. For this reason, whenever possible, defer any potentially unpleasant experiences until after the first week. This limits the impact of trigger stacking and gives dogs some time to adjust to change before experiencing additional stress. It also gives shelter workers a chance to develop a relationship with the dog and start training plans designed to prevent or mitigate stressful experiences. Low‐stress handling includes any process or procedure that reduces stress in the animal being handled. In addition to improving welfare and increasing safety, it will decrease the likelihood of developing (or accelerating) negative handling‐related associations and help keep shelter workers safe from dog bites and other injuries. The first step is being able to correctly recognize and interpret body language signals in dogs so that workers can accurately assess their emotional state and adjust as needed. Staff and volunteers should be taught how to approach a dog in a non‐threatening manner. Most dogs do not respond well to being approached directly, reached for, or leaned over. This is especially true if they are confined (such as in a kennel), restrained, or already fearful for another reason. There are a number of strategies that can be used to get a dog safely in and out of a kennel. In some cases, dogs need to be moved immediately, without having time to condition them to going in the kennel or walking past other dogs. There are long‐term training interventions that can help with this for shelters that have the resources, but this chapter will focus on techniques that workers can use to handle dogs in the moment. For dogs that have already been taught to sit on cue, asking for a sit before opening the kennel door and leashing the dog up can help teach more manageable behavior. If a dog is difficult to get out of the kennel or is exhibiting fearful or aggressive behavior, the staff member can show her the leash and speak kindly and happily to her, using a potentially familiar phrase such as “wanna go for a walk?” They can crack the front of the kennel open, bracing it with a foot so the dog can’t burst out. Some dogs quickly change how they feel about the person at the front of the kennel when they recognize the person is going to take them for a walk. A handler can place their hand and the leash just inside the door and, with a treat, lure the dog’s head through the leash opening. Another handy trick is to slide a long sausage treat through the door from the outside in order to let the dog put her head into the loop of the slip lead, rather than going in and attempting to throw the lead over her head. If the dog remains fearful at the back of the kennel, or is lunging and barking at the front, it’s time to break out the really good treats, which every staff member should carry in their treat pouch. If staff members toss the dog a small piece of chicken, cheese, hot dog, or other high‐value treat every time they walk by, the dog should start feeling better about their presence. Extremely fearful or reactive dogs might take longer to learn this association, but this is a wise protocol to begin with any dog who arrives with poor kennel presentation. A treat bucket on the outside of the kennel makes it easy for volunteers and potential adopters to also toss the dogs treats, thereby generalizing these positive feelings to volunteers and adopters. Some handlers worry that feeding a barking dog reinforces undesirable behavior. If the behavior decreases, by definition, it is not being reinforced. Watch the dog’s body language and demeanor—most dogs can’t help but start to like the “cookie people.” Pavlovian conditioning is a powerful tool. Very fearful or feral‐type dogs may not respond quickly to this protocol, or they may have a harder time generalizing affiliative behavior toward new people. If a fearful dog is dog‐social, co‐kenneling her with a more outgoing companion can help her start feeling better about humans, too. If her companion is at the front of the kennel wagging, social facilitation (as well as the enrichment of having a social companion) can make a big difference in the fearful dog’s willingness to come forward for treats, attention, and, eventually, leashing. The opportunity to go to an exercise area together may also be a chance for positive human interaction. Staff should be coached in treating two dogs with hands far apart so they won’t compete for treats, and dogs should be separated at mealtimes and if either of them is likely to guard food from the other. If co‐kenneling is not possible, scheduled daily play sessions with social dogs can be helpful for teaching a positive association between leashing in the kennel and getting out to do something fun. It may be wise to kennel a fearful dog near the play areas, so the dog can easily move to the play yard, especially if she’s not good at walking on lead. Fitting a fearful dog with a harness and light drag leash can enable catching her once the play session is over. In general, when handling unknown or difficult dogs, it’s easiest to use a slip lead, so that the handler doesn’t have to go all the way into the kennel with the dog in order to leash her up. With dogs who may direct aggression toward the handler, a raised bed or plastic crate pan can be used to protect the handler’s legs as they open the kennel, keeping the barrier between them and the dog as they get a slip lead on to get her out. Sometimes using two people and two slip leads is safer. With one handler on each side of the dog, holding the leashes in opposition to one another, the handlers can work together to keep one another safe from potential bites. Alternatively, a control pole and a slip lead with a second handler can be used when handling of dangerous dogs cannot be avoided (see Figure 8.1). The dog should be guided with the leash as much as possible, with the control pole only used as a backup for safety, to avoid the dog panicking and flailing at the end of the pole. If the dog is unused to being on leash, or if walking through the shelter is too stressful, a rolling crate can be used to move the dog around the shelter and minimize control pole use. Figure 8.1 Simultaneous use of control pole and slip lead for handling of a dangerous dog. When returning the dog to a single‐housed kennel, toss treats in the back corner. This will help her associate returning with something pleasant. If resources allow, you can even give the dog an interactive food‐stuffed toy. Note that food—even high‐value food—will not be enough to counter some dogs’ desire to avoid the kennel or stay with people. However, this method should be helpful for some percentage of kenneled dogs, particularly if employed from the very beginning before a dog develops an aversion to the kennel. When handling a dog that tends to lunge as the kennel door is closed after putting her back, or a fearful dog who will bolt away as the door is opened, it may be helpful to fashion a quick‐release by attaching a lightweight clip lead to the O‐ring of the neck loop. The clip lead can be attached to the O‐ring just moments before the dog is returned to her kennel to avoid loosening the neck loop while walking the dog. Once the dog is secure inside her kennel, the handler can remove the leash by gently tugging on the leash where it connects to the O‐ring, making the procedure hands‐free. This way, the leash can be removed with the kennel door closed and braced with a foot (see Figure 8.2). Figure 8.2 Slip lead with release leash attached. Once the dog is out of the kennel, it’s best to avoid passing other dogs if possible. Some shelters will put all of the dogs on one side of the kennel runs with the guillotine door shut, just before walking time. When each individual dog is ready for their walk (or needs to be transported for some other reason), the door for that dog’s kennel can be opened, and the dog can be leashed and taken out of the kennel on the empty side of the run. If there are dogs across the aisle, they should be put on the opposite side as well. This means that any dog walking down the center aisle will not be exposed to other dogs in kennels. If there are dogs only on one side, the handlers should position themselves on the side farthest from the kenneled dogs, to avoid the potential for a redirected bite to the handler. If having dogs on both sides of the aisle is unavoidable, the handler should try to keep the dog in the center of the aisle to maintain greatest distance. When moving about the facility, avoid allowing dogs to come face‐to‐face or pass each other in close quarters, as this could result in a fight between dogs or cause a dog to redirect onto the handler (Overall 2013; Herron and Shreyer 2014). Even in cases not involving aggression, this is very stressful for many dogs and can lead to the development of aggressive behaviors. To prevent such interaction, have a designated entry and exit door if at all possible, as well as “one‐way” traffic areas in kennel runs. If this is not an option, choose a path that passes by as few other dogs as possible. If kenneled dogs are on the handler’s right side, the handler should be on the left side of the dog they’re moving, so the human’s body won’t be directly between the dog they’re moving and other dogs that dog might want to bite. It is important to keep enough distance between the dogs that they can’t bite one another, and the handler should try not to bump the dog with their leg as they’re walking as this can also cause a redirected bite. When moving through an area where another person, dog, or animal may be encountered, look around corners and calmly announce your approach, so that other workers have warning and can move out of the way or ask you to wait if necessary. Mirrors can be helpful on blind corners. Handlers should also be aware of other sights, sounds, or smells that may be stressful for the dog. Loud noises, strong smells, and high traffic areas can be distressing for many dogs and should be avoided when possible (Overall 2013; Herron and Shreyer 2014; Edwards et al. 2019). Rooms can be wiped down with a veterinary deodorizer after an animal leaves to minimize lingering scents that may be distressing (Herron 2015). Consider alternative strategies for dogs that are particularly fearful or have difficulty moving through the shelter for some other reason, such as physical limitations. Rolling cages can be used to transport dogs from one area of the shelter to another. A blanket or towel draped over the cage can provide further protection from stimulation and help the dog stay calm. Smaller dogs that tolerate handling may be able to be carried. In some cases, wrapping a dog with a blanket or towel and covering their face may help them relax. Each dog will need to be assessed individually to decide on their individual handling plan. Remember to observe body language closely and to stop and re‐evaluate if the dog appears to be extremely stressed, is struggling, or is showing increasing levels of distress. Keep notes on each dog so that other staff and volunteers know which strategies work best for a particular dog. These notes can also be used to make adjustments to the plan for that particular dog. Some dogs may need some additional work in order to be comfortable with basic handling. For those dogs, it is very helpful to go through the process outlined in this section before a dog needs to be handled or removed from its kennel. That will allow them to have several positive experiences before asking them to tolerate touch or move from one place to another. Whenever possible, handlers should give the dog the opportunity to approach them, rather than the handler approaching the dog. It is important to take this slow and to proceed at the dog’s pace. Lack of control is a major factor influencing how stressful a particular experience is (Seligman and Maier 1967; Lucas et al. 2014). Giving the dog more control (such as approaching you when they are ready) will help reduce their stress. Taking a few extra minutes to let the dog get to know the handler before they take a dog out of their kennel can go a long way to making a fearful or anxious dog easier to handle down the road. When doing in‐kennel socialization work, handlers should limit contact to 10–15 minutes at first, so that the dog does not become overwhelmed. Some dogs may need even shorter sessions or “drive‐by treats” to start. Ideally, the dog should become more affiliative and easier to handle after every contact with a volunteer or staff member. If this is not the case, the training plan needs to be changed. If taking a fearful dog out for a walk or other procedure, approach with non‐threatening body language. Turn sideways and, if safe to do so, crouch down. Gently toss high‐value treats toward them. Avoid making sudden or dramatic moves when tossing treats, as this can be scary. Instead, try to throw treats using a subtle flick of the wrist, rather than moving the entire forearm or arm. Avoid making direct eye contact. Talk quietly and calmly, using a welcoming tone of voice. Some dogs react better to silence, but some dogs seem to be spooked by this and will become more afraid if someone is completely quiet and still. As the dog gains confidence, gradually toss treats closer to the handler. If the dog approaches, let them sniff without reaching for them or speaking suddenly or loudly. Many dogs need plenty of time to sniff (or sniff and retreat) before they are ready for more direct interaction. Continue to ignore the dog until she solicits contact. Most dogs will do this by leaning against or pawing the handler, or pushing their nose or head under the handler’s hand. If petting a shy or unknown dog, avoid reaching over their head or back. Instead, pet them gently on the side of the shoulder or neck. Many dogs dislike being touched on the head or hugged. Many dogs are also sensitive around their feet, belly, and rear end. Avoid sudden, fast movements, reaching toward or leaning over the dog, and sudden, loud noises. Feeding high‐value treats can help the dog to warm up more quickly, but be mindful that this can also make them approach more closely than they otherwise would. This makes it particularly important to avoid sudden movement and sound. If you do need to shift positions or stand up, toss food away so the dog is not right next to you when you stand. Watch them carefully for the signs of fear and stress discussed above. It can be helpful to teach fearful dogs to place their heads through a wide‐open slip lead, luring with food at first. Additional steps can be taken for more invasive handling, such as grooming and medical procedures. The goal is to reduce the animal’s stress as much as possible. Keeping dogs as calm as possible will also reduce the risk of injury to staff as well as the amount of time needed for procedures. The least amount of restraint necessary should be used. If an animal is struggling, stop and reassess. The general rule of thumb is three seconds for dogs and no more than three tries (Edwards et al. 2019). Animals should be restrained in a way that makes them as comfortable as possible. This includes giving them a non‐slip surface and holding limbs in natural and comfortable positions (Overall 2013; Hammerle et al. 2015). Towels and blankets can also be a good option, particularly for smaller dogs (Overall 2013). When possible, also let the dog choose the location of the exam that they are most comfortable with—such as the table or the floor. Many animals are more comfortable on the floor than on the table (Döring et al. 2009). Fear Free® (Fear Free, LLC, Denver, CO) training programs advocate for the use of a touch gradient. This involves touching the animal lightly first and continuing the exam with gradually escalating intensity of touch. For example, pet, tap, pinch, inject. During this process, the handler should maintain constant contact with at least one hand on the dog. This will help avoid a startle effect that can occur when the hands are removed and touch is initiated again. Again, dogs should be approached from the side, rather than from behind or head on. Many dogs are most comfortable being touched on the shoulder or side, so this is a good starting point. Avoid beginning the process by handling areas that are painful or frequently sensitive, such as the head, ears, feet, or tail. During an exam or grooming procedure, food can be used as a distraction. This is most beneficial when circumstances or staff resources do not allow for gradually acclimating a dog to a procedure. This will probably be the case in most shelter environments. Food should be highly palatable. Examples include peanut butter, canned tuna, canned dog food, baby food, squeeze cheese, and freeze‐dried real meat. Food can be placed in small disposable cups for the dogs to lick to avoid additional sanitization and cleanup time. Offer food even to dogs that are calm. This will help maintain their positive emotional state and reduce the likelihood of becoming fearful of handling, grooming, or veterinary procedures down the line. The strategies described in Sections 8.6.1–8.6.4 are best for minimizing stress in the moment. However, they are not necessarily effective at preventing stress in the long run because the dog may start to associate the presence of food (for example) with unpleasant experiences. In a shelter environment that has a training and/or behavior department, there are additional steps that can be taken to aid in handling. These processes can also be passed on to any new adopters for them to continue at home and during vet clinic visits. Muzzle training is very beneficial for a number of reasons. Staff or volunteers can train dogs to wear a muzzle so that if they do need to be muzzled at some point, it doesn’t add to their stress during a procedure. The Muzzle Up! Project is a great resource for information on muzzle training a dog (www.muzzleupproject.com). It can also be very helpful to establish a conditioned emotional response to the rooms where dogs are likely to be handled (such as grooming areas and clinic areas). If they have had multiple positive experiences in a room prior to having a potentially aversive experience, they may be more resilient. This will also minimize trigger stacking because the animal will not be stressed simply by being in an unfamiliar room. The first step involves bringing the dog into the new space and letting them investigate at their own pace. High‐value treats can be scattered on the ground or offered by hand. Scattering on the ground has the additional benefit of encouraging the dog to explore and associating multiple areas of the room (not just the area where the human is) with good things. However, it is also beneficial to teach the dog that good things come from the people in the room. It’s important during this process to make sure inappropriate behavior is not being reinforced. For example, staff and volunteers should turn their back or stand up if the dog is barking, jumping, or pawing for attention or food and should not feed the dog during or immediately after any of these behaviors. Once the dog is comfortable in the room and indicates they are ready for interaction, start to interact with the dog through training, quiet play, or gentle petting. If the dog does not approach, sit on a chair, sideways to the dog, and use the procedure detailed in Section 8.6.3 to increase comfort with the handler. Taking measures to help the dog feel comfortable can extend beyond the veterinary and grooming areas to other appropriate areas of the shelter such as the room where potential adopters get acquainted with dogs. This can help maintain already positive feelings or reduce feelings of fear or stress associated with these contexts. It has the added benefit of starting to teach the dog that new areas in general are good, and they are more likely to show their best behavior to adopters when they are comfortable with the location. Several studies have shown that petting and personal interaction reduce stress in shelter dogs. McGowan et al. (2018) found that 15 minutes of petting resulted in decreased signs of stress. This was the case even though the volunteer was unfamiliar to the dog. There is some evidence that petting may have a particularly strong impact on social dogs (Shin and Shin 2017). It even appears to help mitigate the impacts of an aversive experience, such as a blood draw (Hennessy et al. 1998). It’s possible that petting per se is not the key factor—Shiverdecker and colleagues (2013) found that play and the passive (non‐interactive) presence of a human also decreased cortisol—and there was no significant difference between dogs in those conditions and dogs that received petting. Therefore, shelters do not need to focus solely on petting as a possible source of stress reduction. Time spent together interacting in other ways, such as play or walking together, is likely to be beneficial as well. What is defensive handling? It is a set of skills and techniques that keep the handler safe, starting with reading the dog’s body language accurately, then learning to use a leash and the tools at hand to stay safe, and, finally, handling gently and calmly to minimize fear and reduce the risk of aggressive behavior. Learning how to safely handle dogs includes learning how to lengthen and shorten the leash to keep the dog away from triggers, as well as how to use body weight and center of balance to convince the dogs that the handler is strong and not easily budged by a hard pull. Defensive handling also includes some basic techniques to stay safe if a dog tries to bite a person or another dog. Gentle, reward‐based training and low‐stress handling methods take a lot of the risk out of working with difficult dogs, but any time handlers work with animals that have teeth, they’re at risk of a bite. We need to respect dogs’ speed and strength in order to keep ourselves and other shelter animals safe. One of the best investments a shelter can make is in training their staff and volunteers in safe, humane handling. Increasing the skills of the employees who work with the dogs every day is a win/win, as the dogs will behave better every time they’re handled, and the employees will gain valuable skills to make them safer. Shelter workers and volunteers who haven’t been properly trained in how to handle and work with dogs with behavior issues will have trouble staying safe around dogs who become stressed, fearful, or aggressive. This may result in injuries and perhaps fear of working with these types of animals in the future. As sheltering professionals, it is our responsibility to keep ourselves, our volunteers, our adopters, and the community as safe as possible. When working with dogs, it’s important to be aware of your environment and to always be prepared for worst‐case scenarios. If an off‐leash dog charges a handler and their dog during a walk, what tools are available? Which way should they go? If a person comes around the corner while a handler is working with a reactive or fearful dog, should they cross the street? Get behind a car? Do a U‐turn? If a dogfight breaks out during shelter dog playgroups, what tools should be used, and in what order? Many shelters choose to use slip leads for daily dog handling. If you have a short length of stay and dogs get adequate in‐ and out‐of‐kennel enrichment, the slip lead can be an effective tool. The other advantage to slip leads is that they can be tossed or gently dropped onto a dog without needing to fumble around their head or neck area to fit equipment or attach a leash. A correctly fitted slip lead can be safer than using a collar or harness with a clip leash, especially for the handler working with fearful or potentially aggressive dogs (see Figure 8.3). The downside to using slip leads is that, in the absence of actively teaching the dogs to walk on a loose leash, dogs can damage their tracheas or even choke themselves when they pull hard, out of excitement or fear. It is advised that at least the long‐stay shelter dogs be taught to walk politely without pulling. When using a slip lead to take a dog for a walk, it’s important to fit the lead correctly for the side on which the handler will stand. Conventionally, dogs are handled on the handler’s left, but shelter dogs generally don’t have any formal training; whichever side feels strongest or safest to the handler is fine. The slip lead is properly positioned by making the lead into the letter “P,” and then dropping it onto the dog at the left side of the handler. In this way, it will tighten across the top of the dog’s neck and release easily when the tension is relieved (see Figure 8.4). Figure 8.3 Correctly fitted slip lead. When handling an excited shelter dog, it’s important not to leave a lot of slack leash in front of her face—this will easily start a game of tug‐of‐war and cause a loss of leash control. Ideally, the slip lead will be fitted high up on the dog’s neck, right behind the ears, with the lead going straight up behind the dog’s head, so it’s not so easy for the dog to grab. Figure 8.4 Correct slip lead handling position. Leash width is also important. Rather than fitting the leash to the size of the dog, it’s safest to use a leash that fits the handler’s hand such that they can maintain a firm grip and easily use the techniques in this section. The leash should be able to lengthen and shorten easily, “lock” in the hand to keep it from slipping, and be of sufficient width so as not to cut into the hand if the dog pulls hard. An average person’s hand tends to fit a 5/8‐inch leash well. A person with larger hands might choose a 3/4‐inch leash. Leashes made of BioThane® (BioThane Coated Webbing Corp., North Ridgeville, OH) or leather are easy to grip and don’t slip unless they’re wet but can be expensive. Cotton or nylon leashes are strong but can slide through fingers. Handlers should use a leash that they can easily close their fingers around and that is easy to lengthen and shorten. Many shelters use rope leashes; these are fine for most people’s hands, though they are inappropriate for shortening with the finger lock technique, as this spreads your fingers and reduces grip strength. Rope leads can be more easily shortened with a thumb lock (see Section 8.7.4.3). The length of the leash should be adjusted for the work to be done with the dog and the environment. A 6‐ft. leash is adequate for most situations, as it can be lengthened or shortened as needed, even with dogs who have behavioral issues. The shorter, thinner, 3‐ or 4‐ft. nylon leads that many shelters buy are hard on people’s hands and dogs’ necks and are too short for most of the leash work described in this chapter. If this is all that is available, two of these can be attached together to give the handler and the dog more options. If you are using 5‐ to 6‐ft. shelter slip leads, these can be made into harnesses to take the pressure off the dogs’ throats. This can be a solution for hard pullers as well; just displacing the pressure to a different part of the body can help them stop pulling so hard. There are a few ways to do this, depending on the type of slip lead. If there is a large enough O‐ring on the slip, pass the leash behind the dog’s legs and back through the ring (see Figure 8.5). The Harness Lead (Beach Haven, NJ) and The Walkie™ (W Squared, Inc.) use similar mechanisms. For puppies, dogs who are unused to a collar, toy‐breed dogs, and brachycephalic breeds, a vest style, H‐back, or step‐in harness with a clip on the back are all safe and gentle. Figure 8.5 A slip lead positioned for use as a leash harness. Front‐attach harnesses are very popular and can work well to keep dogs from pulling hard. However, some brands can be difficult to get on squirmy dogs, and this design puts the leash right in front of the dog’s mouth, where it’s fun for them to grab. Some dogs get defensive about being harnessed if they ever get the skin behind their elbows pinched while clipping the harness. Staff and volunteers should be taught to be careful about this. Putting a hand between the plastic clip and the dog will ensure that if anyone gets pinched, it will be the human. Walking harnesses are often fitted incorrectly, which can create an escape risk and can also be painful for the dogs or chafe behind the front legs. Staff and volunteer training in low‐stress equipment handling is vital, as is a good understanding of how the manufacturers intended their equipment to be fitted. Using treats while putting on head halters, martingale collars, or harnesses can help desensitize dogs to the equipment every time you take them out or put them back. A smear of peanut butter on the wall or lick mat or a scattering of treats on the ground can also distract the dog while they’re getting “dressed,” and these simple counterconditioning techniques should be part of staff and volunteer training if this equipment is used. One other equipment tip: if using coats to walk dogs during frigid winter weather, use only coats with VELCRO® (Velcro IP Holdings, LLC, Manchester, NH) closures. Many a dog has been upset and many a shelter worker has been bitten trying to squeeze a dog’s head or legs into a sweater. For most shelter dog handling, if not using slip leads alone, a martingale collar is safe and, when adjusted properly, hard for the dog to slip out of. If the metal pieces are able to touch one another when the collar is pulled tight, the collar needs to be shortened up a bit, so there’s at least a couple of fingers’ width between the rings. The loop should not hang so loosely that a leg or jaw can get stuck. A martingale collar with a clip attachment is easier to put on nervous dogs than those that have to be pushed over their heads, but the plastic clip may be a weak point. A well‐fitted flat buckle collar can be a good tool for dogs who aren’t good at slipping out of them and for dogs who don’t pull hard. They may not safely fit dogs with thick necks and smaller heads. There are several types of head halters. These can be great tools for controlling extremely large dogs or dogs who have a tendency to redirect aggression onto their handler. This equipment does need to be fitted correctly, and some dogs, even with careful desensitization, will always protest wearing them. A frequent mistake with the commonly used Gentle Leader® (Radio Systems Corporation, Knoxville, TN) is the neck strap fitting too loosely. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and ensure that only one finger fits under the neck strap. The muzzle strap should be loose enough to allow panting. Gentle leash handling is particularly important with this powerful tool; the leash should be loose unless you are giving direct information to the dog about slowing down, moving forward, or turning. It can also be helpful to use a more lightweight leash clip so there isn’t as much weight on the dog’s nose. Using low‐stress, reward‐based methods will make dogs less likely to become offensively or defensively aggressive toward their handlers. Even so, handlers occasionally meet dogs who will try to bite or who will redirect aggression on them when frustrated by something out of reach. It is important to know how to defend oneself if this sort of thing happens. Dogs’ jaws are very fast and well coordinated. When working with shelter dogs, the leash is the handler’s primary tool. Holding a leash correctly and firmly can save milliseconds in the event of a bite attempt. Hold the leash sloppily, and one can end up with a bite wound or a broken hand. It is safest to hold the leash with the hand closest to the dog, in order to keep it short while walking through tight spaces in the shelter. When handling a potentially aggressive dog, arm strength is best used by ensuring the “dog end” of the leash always comes out of the pinkie finger side of the hand. If the leash comes out of the index finger side of the hand while holding a snapping dog at arm’s length, the handler will have far less strength, the hand and arm may twist, and there may be the risk of a bite or other injury. While handling a strong or difficult dog, it’s important to keep the leash in the hand closest to the dog and to never put one’s body between the dog and the kennels, if possible. It is important to ensure the leash cannot slip through the hands. If the leash accidentally slips out and lengthens, a fearful or aggressive dog may have room to bite a dog or human who is passing by. Here’s where the leash lock comes in. While shortening the leash, the piece that is shortened will go over the finger (see Figure 8.6) or thumb (see Figure 8.7). When the hand is closed again around the whole leash, it will be far less likely to slip through the hand, at least if the handler’s grip strength is good. If round rope leashes are used, the thumb lock is preferable to the finger lock. Many people prefer to wrap the leash around their wrist or the palm of their hands, but these grips are not as easy to let go of if a handler needs to back tie the dog or get away from her. Under no circumstance should a leash be wrapped around a hand or a wrist multiple times, as this can seriously injure a handler (Forrester 2020), and it will be much more difficult to get away from a dog who becomes aggressive. Handlers should use the leash grip that is most comfortable AND safe. Figure 8.6 Finger lock. Figure 8.7 Thumb lock. There may be times that handlers want to shorten the leash without using the leash lock—perhaps they find themselves lengthening and shortening the leash many times while walking through the shelter, or perhaps they’re working a dog on a long line and need to gather a number of loops into one hand. In these cases, the “accordion” leash‐shortening method might be most appropriate: starting the hold, as always, with the leash handle over just a thumb, and then folding it into “bunny ears” in the hand (see Figure 8.8). This hold is easy to lengthen, as the handler just needs to open and close the hand once, and the dog has the full 6 ft. again. This will allow handlers to more easily increase distance from an aggressive or over‐aroused dog and shut the leash in a door, or to wrap the leash around a pole or handle, in order to back tie the dog (see Section 8.7.6.3). When working with dogs, especially dogs who may panic or aggress, it is important to stay balanced and ready to counteract any of the dog’s movements to avoid being pulled off one’s feet or lose control of the dog. It is best to wear safe, practical clothing when handling dogs—closed‐toe shoes or boots with good grip for the surface underfoot. If the dog being handled has a tendency to redirect aggression onto the handler, sturdy jeans or work pants will offer leg protection, and for some dogs, Kevlar® (DuPont de Nemours, Inc.) handling gloves may be advised. There will be less dexterity with gloves, but when it is necessary to work in closer contact with dogs who may bite, the trade‐off may be worth it. Figure 8.8 An accordion leash hold can be formed by folding the leash into “bunny ears” (A) and then closing the hand (B). Opening the hand instantly allows the dog to have the full leash length. In general, when working with more difficult or unknown dogs, it’s best to stay standing up. If appearing smaller might gain a dog’s trust, the handler might squat or go down on one knee rather than sitting or kneeling all the way down. That way if the dog’s behavior changes, it is easy for the person to stand up and get out of the way. When standing still with a dog, it is best to keep feet roughly shoulder width apart. If the dog is pulling in one direction, the handler’s weight can be positioned over the opposite foot, to counterbalance the dog’s weight. Most people’s center of balance is around belly button height, so keeping hands low and close to the body will increase safety and strength. This will also more easily allow leash shortening for better defensive handling, if needed. When walking with a dog, hands should be low and weight should be solidly over the feet so that the handler can’t easily be pulled off balance. If a dog needs to be restrained or walked in the opposite direction as a distraction passes, the handler can smoothly slide a hand down the leash to a short hold that doesn’t leave the dog room to reach another dog or person if she decides to lunge or bite. The exact distance will depend on the size of the dog, the length of the handler’s arm, and the equipment being used. It is important to give the dog slack on the leash as soon as the distraction passes. If the dog is trying to jump up on someone in a friendly way, try dropping treats on the ground or putting a foot on the leash to keep the dog from being reinforced by the person’s attention. A lot of redirected bites can be avoided by good leash handling and body positioning, as well as by avoiding blind corners and maintaining an appropriate distance from potential triggers. Handlers should try to avoid coming between the dog they’re walking and a row of kennels. If a dog is actively trying to bite, they should straighten the leash arm (consider a two‐handed leash hold for stronger dogs) and hold the dog away. It may be wise to walk a known redirector on either a head halter, a muzzle, or both so that control of her mouth is maintained. Maintaining dogs in social isolation can cause behavioral deterioration, especially in shelters with longer lengths of stay and in the absence of effective in‐kennel and out‐of‐kennel enrichment programs. Shelters should aspire to stay within their capacity for care in part by reducing length of stay. Institutional living can be stressful for social animals, so it is important to move them into adoptive homes without unnecessary delay (Newbury et al. 2010). Giving dogs social time with humans and dogs outside of their kennels and giving them lots of feeding and chewing enrichment in their kennels will also help avoid over‐arousal and leash climbing. Co‐kenneling can also help, especially with dog‐social, mouthy adolescents. Consider sending behaviorally deteriorating dogs to foster care—even for one night or a weekend. Positive traits that may enhance adoptability may be discovered once the dog is in a home environment. A common behavior issue while walking shelter dogs is leash‐grabbing, which can escalate to biting at the clothing, arms, or legs of the handler. This should be considered a cry for help from the dog, and steps should be taken to get them out of the shelter environment completely and help them cope with shelter life until that time. Some techniques to discourage leash‐grabbing in the short term include: There should be places in each area of the shelter where the leash can be run through a hook, handle, rail, or carabiner to pull the dog away from the handler or against the wall. These back ties are a safe way to maintain control while waiting for the dog to calm down, for a second handler and second leash, or for a control pole to get the dog back to their kennel. If an aggressive dog needs to be held away from a handler on a walk, running the leash around a tree or fence post can serve a similar function. A control pole (sometimes referred to as a “catch” pole) is an infrequently used emergency measure to move a dog who can’t be secured by any other means. It should never be used on a small dog or cat, as severe injury or death may result. Alternatives to a control pole must always be considered, such as a rolling crate, a towel, a Snappy Snare, a squeeze cage, or sedation. Many dogs are reactive when confined in a kennel. Prior to using a control pole on such dogs, and if movement of the dog is not urgent, try housing the dog in a guillotine kennel and spending a few days winning her over with food or walks. Most dogs who have once been pets can be walked using a simple leash once they adjust to shelter life. Every ward should have a control pole near the fight kit (see Section 8.7.7)—it is wise to put an appropriate length pole in each area, for the job it is likely to have to do. Shorter poles may be easier to manage, especially in a smaller kennel run or for certain types of veterinary handling, but they will also put the dog closer to the handler, which can be more dangerous. Never store a control pole by hanging it by the wire noose or by propping the noose end on the ground. These practices will kink the line, making it harder to tighten and loosen, and may present a safety hazard to both the handler and the dog. Control poles should be hung via attachments to the pole handle and should be regularly checked for wear and to ensure they still work properly. A control pole needs to be positioned correctly, with the pole at the top of the dog’s neck, to avoid having the wire twist. Handlers should practice tightening and loosening the noose on a stuffed dog or other suitable‐sized object, even a coworker’s wrist, before attempting to use it on a live dog. Adrenaline can often cause people to pull the neck loop too tight, easily hurting or choking a dog with this powerful tool. Application of the techniques described in this chapter will help minimize the need for using a control pole. The control pole needs to be used like a rigid leash; it is important to avoid pushing on it or putting excessive pressure on the dog’s neck. Ask the dog to move gently, beside the handler, and give her a clear path forward. Never use the pole to drag a dog behind the handler or to lift the dog onto an elevated surface. Circle with her if necessary. Again, a rolling crate or chemical restraint may be safer and more humane options if moving a fearful or potentially aggressive dog a considerable distance. Using a second handler and leash and doing most of the guiding with the leash rather than the pole may be less stressful for the dog. If an off‐leash dog is trying to bite, first try to defuse the situation by using non‐confrontational body language. Slow movements, avoiding direct eye contact, and backing away slowly are often safer options than physically confronting a potentially aggressive dog. If the dog continues to threaten, handlers should use whatever tools are at hand. All workers should have training on the location of fight kits and the use of the tools in them (see Section 8.7.7). Doors or escape routes should be noted. Handlers who are threatened by an unleashed, potentially aggressive dog might put themselves in a kennel run or climb on or over a table, fence, or vehicle. Handlers should be taught to scan the environment for objects to put between them and the dog, like a chair or a trash can, and to look for something they might “feed” to the dog, such as an item of clothing, a toy, or a leash. They might direct the dog’s attention onto this inanimate object by wiggling it in front of them. It is really important to remain on one’s feet. Handlers might grab something with one hand to avoid falling down, turn their body sideways, and use their feet to keep the dog away from more vital body parts. As a last resort, positioning one’s back against a wall or in a corner means the dog can’t easily pull a handler down. If the dog has a grip on clothing or a body part and is shaking her head, the handler should grab the collar, scruff, or sides of her head to minimize that head movement. Handlers might try standing over the dog and gripping her waist between their knees in “control position” if she’s biting someone else (see Figure 8.9). If there is a break stick in the nearest fight kit, this can be an effective way to get a dog to release their grip. Handlers can also try “feeding the bite” (i.e., pushing the biting dog forward into the victim, causing the dog to recoil and release) or using a noise interrupter to get the dog to release and back off. The goal is to get the dog on a leash and behind a door, preferably in a kennel. Closing the door on the leash can keep the dog from biting others on the other side, if it is not a kennel door. See Section 8.7.7 for further discussion of these techniques. As a last resort, and if there is not a break stick or other tool handy, getting water into a dog’s nose and mouth may get her to release her grip. It is important that someone has the dog in control position when the grip is released, so that the dog cannot then redirect her aggression on the handler. Dogs can be harder to handle when wet and slippery, so using a break stick or other dogfight tools may be preferable. Figure 8.9 “Control position” for restraining a dog that is attempting to bite. If a dangerous dog does manage to pull a handler down, it may be safest to curl up into a ball and play dead, using the hands to cover the neck. If veterinary staff are available, a gripping dog can be sedated intramuscularly in order to get them to release a grip on a human or another dog. Another option is to use a slip lead, collar, or belt and lift up on the dog’s neck until the dog lets go in order to get a breath of air. A taser may be another option to get a dog to back off or let go—sometimes just the crackling sound is enough to accomplish this. Although it’s important to try to avoid dogfights, they will happen from time to time, when attention slips, when a dog escapes, or when someone makes a miscalculation about behavior. The defensive maneuvers that come naturally to us as humans are often quite dangerous when applied to a dogfight. Grabbing collars, punching, kicking, trying to pry mouths apart with our fingers—these are all potentially very risky moves. When faced with a dogfight, first take a breath and think. Where are the tools? Who else is around? And most importantly, which dog is the aggressor? That is the one who will need to be removed from the situation first. The goal, in order to keep people and dogs safe, is to get this dog behind a door, through a gate, or into a kennel. Sometimes there is more than one dog actively aggressing and, in these cases, there should be a second handler to deal with that dog or to remove one and then attempt to contain the second. Alternatively, one dog can be tied to something secure, and then the second dog can be broken away and removed from the area. A loud alarm, such as an air horn or walkie‐talkie button, can function as a call for help if a handler is alone when a dogfight breaks out in a ward or play yard. There should be one in each fight kit, and/or a “panic button” in each ward, so shelter workers can easily summon help. If a fight breaks out in a playgroup and someone is actively breaking up the fight, other helpers should quickly and efficiently remove each of the non‐combatant dogs and take them to a safe place or attach them to the fence with a carabiner. Ideally, dogs who are interacting in a play or adoption area will be wearing drag leashes so that their leashes can simply be picked up. If not, use (or make) a slip lead to get the other dogs out of the area safely, one at a time. Slip leads can be fashioned out of clip leads by running the clip through the handle, creating a circle at one end for the dog’s head. Next, concentrate on the aggressor. Fight kits should be available in each play yard and in areas of the facility that people can easily access during an emergency (see Box 8.1). Fight kits should be inventoried at least every two months. Make sure the spray devices are checked as would be done for a fire extinguisher, to ensure they’re still pressurized and full, and check the condition and function of control poles at the same time.
8
Handling Shelter Dogs
8.1 Introduction
8.2 What Is Stress?
8.3 Stress in Shelter Dogs
8.4 Body Language
8.5 Responding to the Dog’s Emotional State
8.5.1 Timing
8.6 Low‐Stress Handling
8.6.1 Entering and Exiting Kennels
8.6.1.1 Getting Difficult Dogs Out of Kennels
8.6.1.2 Returning Dogs to Kennels
8.6.2 Moving Dogs Around the Shelter
8.6.3 Getting a Dog Comfortable with a New Handler
8.6.4 Handling for Procedures
8.6.5 Developing Positive Associations
8.6.5.1 Muzzle Training
8.6.5.2 Developing a Positive Emotional Response to Specific Locations
8.6.6 Reducing Stress through Handling
8.7 Defensive Handling
8.7.1 Why Do We Need These Skills?
8.7.2 Have a Plan
8.7.3 Equipment
8.7.3.1 Leashes
8.7.3.2 Walking Equipment
8.7.3.3 Collars
8.7.3.4 Head Halters
8.7.4 Leash Handling
8.7.4.1 How to Hold a Leash
8.7.4.2 Hand Holds
8.7.4.3 Leash Locks
8.7.4.4 Accordion
8.7.5 Balance and Body Awareness
8.7.6 Handling Scenarios
8.7.6.1 Redirected Aggression
8.7.6.2 Highly Aroused Dogs
8.7.6.3 Back Ties
8.7.6.4 Control Pole Use and Storage
8.7.6.5 Off‐Leash Dogs
8.7.7 Breaking Up a Dogfight
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