Housesoiling is the most common behavior problem for which cat owners seek assistance ¹ and a major reason why some cats are abandoned or euthanized.² Housesoiling (which consists of inappropriate toileting and urine marking) was the most common feline behavior complaint in a study at three behavior practices, comprising 58% of 300 cases. Of these, 70% were due to inappropriate toileting, 30% were marking, and 13% were exhibiting both behaviors.³ At the behavior service at the Veterinary College in Barcelona, the most common housesoiling diagnosis was litter aversion in 63.4% of cases.⁴ Most of the housesoiling involved urination (59%), with urination and defecation at 32%, and defecation only at 9%. Persian cats were most frequently presented for elimination problems, which is consistent with the findings of other studies.^5,⁶

In order to treat housesoiling in cats effectively, it is essential that the practitioner first determine whether the problem is inappropriate toileting or marking. Yet in one study only 69% of veterinarians inquired about whether the soiling was on vertical or horizontal surfaces.⁷ Inappropriate toileting is generally due to factors related to the litter site (avoidance of the box, litter, or area), preferences for other surfaces or sites, and problems accessing the site (location, other pets).⁸ Urine spraying occurs when a cat backs up to a vertical surface and directs a stream of urine toward an object or surface. More rarely, a cat may mark on horizontal surfaces. Urine marking may be caused by territorial competition, anxiety-evoking situations, or arousing events and may be stimulated by novel sights, sounds, or odors, especially from other cats. When alterations in the environment lead to stress or anxiety, marking may be an adaptive behavior for maintenance of social organization. Although sexually intact cats are most likely to spray, the problem is reported in 12% of neutered males and 4% of spayed females.⁹ While it is essential to rule out medical causes for any behavior problem, this is especially true for inappropriate toileting since any medical condition affecting lower urinary tract health, urine or stool consistency, volume, or control can cause soiling. To make a diagnosis, identify the cause(s), develop a prognosis, and design a treatment plan that is appropriate for the cat and household requires both the medical workup and a comprehensive behavioral history.

Multicat households can pose a challenge since it may not be immediately evident which cat is soiling. Separation for a few days or weeks may be necessary to find the perpetrator; however, while separation may be successful at identifying the marking cat, it can change the dynamics of the household and alter elimination habits. Another approach is to give fluorescein ¹⁰ orally (0.5 mL of a 10% solution or the ends of six strips of 6 mg fluorescein into gel caps) and assess any soiled areas with a Wood’s lamp or “black light” for fluorescence, which will last up to 24 hours. However, one study found that fluorescein can stain carpet and may not fluoresce in acidic urine.¹¹ Therefore the best option appears to be monitoring with a webcam, monitor, or recording device to catch the culprit as well as view the soiling behavior, which might give clues as to cause. Bright-colored, nontoxic crayon shavings or nontoxic arts and crafts glitter can be added to canned food to identify which cat is fecal soiling.

Litterbox training

Since most cats prefer to dig prior to elimination, perform a burying ritual after elimination, and prefer something absorbent, providing a litter that is kept clean, easily accessible, and has a texture amenable to the cat is all that is usually necessary. Of course, the kitten must be prevented from accessing other similar substrates, such as plant soil. Litter should be scooped daily and changed weekly. The presence of another cat or dog in the home or the location of the litter box may be a factor in preventing or denying access to it. Kittens that do not use their litterboxes consistently should be assessed for medical problems (Box 19.1, client handout #15, printable version available online) and Table 19.1).

Box 19.1

Litter-training kittens (client handout #15, printable version available online)

In order to prevent litterbox problems in adult cats, it is extremely important to get your kitten off to a good start. Fortunately, most kittens are attracted to an area where they can scratch, dig, and perhaps bury their urine and stool, so that dirt, clay, or any other “litter” that allows for digging will usually be effective. However, if there are other surfaces that are attractive to your kitten such as plants with soil, you will need to prevent access to these areas. Most kittens can easily be housetrained if offered a suitable litter, in a quiet location with easy access. The box should be scooped and refilled each day or any time you see it has been used, and it should be changed at least once a week. Whenever you see your kitten using the box, be sure to provide rewards. To ensure that there are enough clean litterboxes available at any one time and to reduce the possibility of conflicts at the litterbox, provide at least one box per cat.

Begin by closely watching the kitten at all times or confine your cat to the room where the litter is located when you cannot supervise. Be sure the room has everything the kitten needs to keep it happy: places to climb, perch, rest, and scratch, and some food, water, and play toys. If you are supervising and your kitten begins purposely sniffing around, it may need to eliminate. Say “litter time,” gently pick it up, carry it to the litterbox, and place it inside. Praise any sniffing or scratching and give praise, a small treat, or a play toy for eliminating. Do this for at least the first 2 weeks and a regular pattern of using the box is likely to be established. You may also find that in time the command “litter time” might get it to go to the box to eliminate to get the reward, without the need to move the kitten physically.

Litter (substrate)

1. Choose an appropriate litter material. Studies suggest that more cats prefer clumping litter. It’s also easier to keep clean, although it may lead to tracking of material outside the box. Other commercial litter materials may prove equally or more appealing. Kittens that eat litter should not be given clumping litter.

2. If the litter you have chosen is not being used by your kitten, try other types. Some kittens may prefer a different texture. Traditional clay litter, recycled newspaper litter, plastic litter pellets (pearls), wheat litter, cedar shavings, or even a little potting soil or sand added to the litter may be more appealing.

3. If your kitten won’t use the litterbox, try to determine if there is anything about the litter that it doesn’t like. For example, you may find that the scent, texture, a litter liner, litter additive, or insufficient cleaning is leading to avoidance.

Litterbox

1. Choose an appropriate litterbox. The box should be big enough that an adult cat can move about and scratch. Many litterboxes are too small for a cat to enter comfortably, squat, and dig. Some kittens even prefer self-cleaning litters while others are frightened by these products.

2. If the litterbox is not being used regularly, try other types. Some kittens prefer the privacy of a hooded box. A larger box may be more appealing, such as a sweater storage box or even a small child’s swimming pool if you have multiple cats. Some kittens may prefer a deeper box with more litter while others may prefer lower sides so that they can be more easily accessed. Some kittens may prefer a ledge on which to perch surrounding the litterbox.

3. If your pet won’t use the litterbox, try to determine if there is anything about it that is deterring your kitten. For example, you may find that a hood, sides that are too high, a litterbox that is too small, or a motorized self-cleaning litterbox may lead to avoidance.

Location

1. The box should be located in a quiet area that is easily accessible to the pet, especially when it wakes from a nap, or after eating or playing.

2. If the box is not being used by your kitten, consider sites that are easier to access including the ones that the kitten prefers to use. If you use the room for other functions (e.g., bathroom), it may be inaccessible to the kitten when it needs to be used.

3. If the litterbox is in an area that might be unpleasant or anxiety-evoking for your kitten (e.g., a dark basement, or next to a furnace, air vent, washing machine, or toilet) it may be necessary to relocate it.

4. Some kittens will avoid the area if they are chased, cornered, or bothered by another cat or dog in the area. If this is the case, then additional locations or more privacy may be needed (e.g., a cat door to the area).

Spraying

Some cats, especially males that reach puberty and have not been neutered and female cats in estrus (heat), may begin to mark their territory by backing up and spraying a stream of urine on vertical (upright) objects and surfaces. Neutering will stop the spraying behavior in most cats. If neutering is not successful you will need to seek advice to determine why your cat is continuing to spray. Treatment may involve finding and resolving the source of territorial stimulation, addressing anxiety or conflict in the home, reducing urine odor, or using a pheromone (Feliway) or medication.

What to do if your kitten does not use the litterbox

1. Determine whether your kitten is soiling with urine, stools, or both and identify the surfaces and locations that are soiled. Discuss the problem with your veterinarian since medical causes must first be considered.

2. Next, determine where and when the kitten is eliminating to try to determine why it might be avoiding its litter and what the kitten might prefer about the area where it soils. It might then be possible to move the litter or change the litter or box to suit the kitten best.

3. Remove the odor thoroughly from flooring and carpets with an enzymatic/bacterial cleaner.

4. Change the function of the area by placing food bowls, toys, or a scratching post in the area.

5. Consider blocking access to any area where the kitten is soiling or make the area unpleasant with a motion-activated alarm or spray or with an uncomfortable surface such as double-sided tape or a sheet of vinyl carpet runner with the nubs pointing up.

6. If there is more than one cat, provide more litterboxes and at least two litter stations.

Table 19.1 Comparison between marking and inappropriate toileting in cats

Marking	Inappropriate toileting
May be territorial, hormonal, or anxiety-induced	Voiding behavior
Adults – postpubertal	Any age
Most common in intact males and females in estrus followed by neutered males	Males or females, intact or neutered
Urine (in rare cases, feces)	Urine and/or feces
Usually small amounts	Usually larger amounts
Generally vertical surfaces; in rare cases urine or stools on horizontal surfaces	Horizontal surfaces
Stands, tail erect, backs up, treads with rear legs, sprays urine	Squats
Prominent upright surfaces in the home; doors, windows, new objects, owners’ possessions, or frequently used furniture	May eliminate on specific surfaces or selected locations but may also have no obvious preference

Diagnosis

Causes of housesoiling fall into three categories: (1) medical problems; (2) inappropriate toileting; and (3) marking. Medical problems may incite inappropriate toileting which may continue even after the medical problem is resolved if avoidance of the previous litter and new preferences have been learned. Inappropriate toileting can be divided into: (1) substrate preferences and aversions; (2) location preferences and aversions; and (3) aversion due to other factors (the box, unpleasant events, cleanliness).

Medical considerations

After identifying the culprit, the next step is a thorough medical workup. Housesoiling can be due to any medical problem that causes an increased volume of urine or stool, increased discomfort during elimination, decreased control, or diseases that affect cortical control. A thorough physical examination and appropriate laboratory tests should be performed on all suspect cats. The most common medical causes of soiling in young cats are feline interstitial cystitis (FIC) and uroliths, while in older cats neoplasia and bacterial infections become more likely.¹² In fact, in a retrospective study of cats with problem elimination, 60% of the cats had a history of FIC/feline lower urinary tract disease.¹³ Urinary tract disease does not appear to be correlated with urine marking behavior.¹⁴ However, systemic illnesses leading to behavioral signs could contribute to marking by altering hormonal states or increasing anxiety (e.g., hyperthyroidism). Defecation outside the litterbox may be due to any bowel disease that affects urge, frequency, or control.

If the cat is urinating away from the box, a urinalysis, assessment of water intake, and urine frequency should be the minimum workup, although a complete blood count and biochemical profile may also be indicated as part of the baseline evaluation. Since urinary conditions such as FIC may occur intermittently and cause transient signs, repeat urinalyses may need to be performed. In marking cats, evidence of masculinization such as penile barbs or odorous urine might be indicative of the presence of male hormones arising from a retained testicle or testicle remnant.¹⁵ Standardized methods for evaluating testosterone levels in response to gonadotropin-releasing hormone have been developed (see Chapters 6 and 15). For inappropriate defecation, a stool evaluation, along with an assessment of eating, drinking, and elimination habits would be the minimum workup. The owner should be questioned about signs of diarrhea, blood/mucus in the stool, hard stools, and discomfort while defecating (Box 19.2). Additional diagnostic tests might then be indicated based on clinical signs, physical examination, and laboratory findings, including thyroxine, viral testing, radiography, ultrasonography, and possibly even endoscopy (with biopsy if indicated). See Chapter 6 for more details.

Box 19.2

Medical causes of housesoiling in cats

Housesoiling (urine)

Conditions causing polyuria (e.g., diabetes, renal)

Conditions causing pollakiuria (e.g., feline idiopathic cystitis, calculi, bacterial cystitis)

Conditions causing incontinence (e.g., central, neurogenic, neuropathy)

Conditions affecting locomotion (e.g., arthritis, disc disease, muscle atrophy, neurologic)

Miscellaneous conditions (e.g., metabolic disorders such as hepatic, hyperthyroidism, cognitive dysfunction)

Housesoiling (feces)

Conditions causing increased frequency/urge (inflammatory bowel disease, colitis, diarrhea)

Conditions causing painful or difficult defecation (anal sacculitis, obstipation, constipation, neoplasia)

Conditions causing incontinence (neurological)

Conditions affecting locomotion, posturing litter access (arthritis, disc disease, muscle atrophy, neurologic)

Miscellaneous conditions (hyperthyroidism, disorders affecting central nervous system, cognitive dysfunction)

History

Once medical problems have been ruled out, the behavioral history is the most critical diagnostic tool for determining the cause of the soiling as well as to formulate an appropriate treatment plan. (See C5 behavior history form client form 3 as well as 18 and 20 on the website). A home visit can be extremely helpful in evaluating the environment with respect to litter stations, feeding stations, cleaning, play and resting areas, as well as the locations of soiling. For example, if the cat is marking in the home in response to visits by neighborhood cats, you may discover clusters of soiled areas around windows or doors where outdoor cats call. If the behavioral assessment does not include a housecall, details about the environment will need to be gathered by having the owners take video tapes of their home and problem areas or by having the owners make a diagram of the home, indicating litterbox locations, feeding stations, sleeping and scratching locations, and where the cat soils.

The history should then focus on specific questions about the problem. First, determine whether the soiling is horizontal, vertical, or both; urine, stool, or both; and if the litters are used intermittently or not at all. Urine spraying is when a cat backs up and directs a stream of urine onto a vertical surface. Marking cats generally continue to use litter for urination and defecation (although some cats will present with both inappropriate toileting and marking). In a small number of cases, a cat will urinate on horizontal surfaces as a marking behavior. The behavior is typically triggered by territorial or stressful situations. Ask the owner if there are situations or environmental stimuli that precede marking incidents. Look at the locations of elimination as a possible clue to what might be an inciting factor (e.g., doors, windows, a dog’s bedding area). Explore social or environmental changes that might have affected the cat (see Chapter 21). If the cat is eliminating inappropriately on horizontal surfaces, the reason is commonly either an environmental issue that causes the cat to avoid the box, or one that attracts it to an area away from the box. While many cats avoid the box for urine, stool, or both, some cats will use the box intermittently, which might provide some clues as to when and why the box is used and when it is avoided. Periuria has been used to describe urinating outside the litterbox and perichezia to describe defecating outside the litterbox.¹⁶

Obtain litterbox information, such as size, type of box, number of litterboxes and locations, type of litter, frequency and type of cleaning, litterbox management, the cat’s behavior in the box, and whether there is a preferred box, location, or litter. Also evaluate the cat’s elimination habits, including frequency of elimination, whether the stools and urine seem normal, time spent in the box, and the cat’s posturing before, during, and after elimination to evaluate whether it circles, digs, vocalizes, and completes its elimination in the box or whether the cat runs away during elimination. Also ask about the soiling itself: are there surfaces that the cat avoids and are there locations or surfaces that the cat prefers? When did the problem start, and was there any change in the health, environment, or lifestyle of the cat at the time of onset? Describe the present problem and any change or progression over time. What does the owner do when the cat eliminates or when the owner finds a soiled area? Punishment is likely to contribute to anxiety and will not resolve the problem. Find out what treatments have been used to date and the cat’s response. Has the cat had any training? What is the cat’s temperament and how does it get along with family members and visitors? Are there other pets in the home and how do they get along? Finally keep a diary of the daily schedule, frequency of elimination, when and where the soiling occurs, litterbox use, and whether there are any changes or stressors that can be correlated with the elimination events. A monitoring camera in the litter area or the soiled areas may also help to determine the reasons for avoidance.

Cats that entirely avoid using the box may have a preference for other surfaces or locations, or may have an aversion to returning to the box. For cats that use their litter intermittently important clues might be obtained from the diary, monitoring cameras, and history. Litter cleanliness and situations that might induce the cat to avoid the box intermittently should be considered.

Factors that contribute to the initiation of housesoiling may differ from the factors that maintain the behavior. For example, a change in the type or location of litter may have caused the initial avoidance. However, the cat may persist if it has acquired new surface or location preferences such as carpet even if the owner switches back to an acceptable brand of litter. This might not be surprising when one considers that carpet is soft and absorbent, generally quite spacious, has easy access and retreat, retains some residual odor, and is extremely well cleaned by its owners each time urine or stool is found. In this example, the initiating factor was a litter change; the maintaining factors are the new preferences. It is important to know the maintaining factors in order to curtail the problem. Uncovering the initiating factors will help the owner prevent the problem from recurring.

While inappropriate toileting is generally about substrate, location, and access, urine marking is generally associated with situations that are anxiety-evoking.⁸ Territorial issues and hormonal factors may also play a role. Therefore the history for marking should focus on any conflict and anxiety or changes in the environment that may have arisen at the time the behavior began. Based on the cat’s relationships with people and other pets and the location and timing of urine marking, it might be possible to determine the cause or inciting stimuli. For example, some cats will target new or novel objects, surfaces, or odors. Cats that mark external walls, windows, and doorways may be responding to outdoor stimuli. When there are multiple cats in the home, relationships between the cats need to be considered. Cats that mark owner possessions or those of the family dog may be anxious about these relationships. Changes in the environment can also lead to marking. In evaluating the history determine if there are specific events that precede the marking (e.g., punishment, agonistic encounters with dogs or other cats).

Urine marking

Urine spraying is a sexually dimorphic behavior, occurring with a higher frequency in male cats. During the spraying sequence, the cat will back up to the target, stand with its rear end held high, tail erect and quivering, and squirt a stream of urine. During or just prior to the release of urine, the cat may alternately tread the ground with its rear paws. The behavior appears to be facilitated by sexual hormones because the incidence of spraying is higher in intact animals, and enhanced in the spring time by females in estrus.¹⁷ Intact male cat urine has a particularly powerful pungency, likely due in part to felinine levels. Estrus also increases spraying by females.¹⁸ However, urine marking is not completely dependent on the hormones since 10% or more of males and 5% or less of females will continue to spray following neutering.^9,^19,²⁰ In fact, in clinical trials for a urine marking study, the ratio of neutered males to spayed females may exceed 5 : 1.²¹ This is likely because the neural circuitry in the male is established prior to birth.²² Cats in multicat households are more likely to spray than cats in single-cat households.²¹ Male cats that live with a female cat are more likely to spray than those living with another male.²⁰

While urine spraying on upright surfaces is readily recognized as a type of marking, cats may less commonly urine mark on horizontal surfaces. This type of urine marking can be more difficult to diagnose, especially when the eliciting stimuli are not readily apparent. Marking on horizontal surfaces is a consideration when the cat deposits small amounts of urine or feces on socially significant surfaces, rather than specific substrates or locations, and continues to use its litter for elimination of both urine and stools. In horizontal marking, the cat may squat, quiver the tail, and walk away without sniffing.²³ Most cats that mark on horizontal surfaces also mark on vertical surfaces.²⁴

Urine marking serves as a communicative function among conspecifics with territorial, agonistic, and sexual connotations. Cats generally mark to leave their own scent. As such the cat does not dig after spraying nor try to cover its scent.²⁵ While cats have been observed to overmark the urine marks of other cats, there is little indication that cats are strongly motivated to cover recently posted markings of preceding animals with their own urine.²⁶ It has also been suggested that urine marking may serve to coordinate movements and territorial use, thus limiting contact between individuals in a given area that might be antagonistic, “i.e., time sharing.”¹⁹ While this may be the case, there is no indication that discovering a urine mark causes the investigating cat to avoid or retreat.²³ Flehmen is used in response to the urine of other cats, as a means of collecting social information. Male cats are more intent on investigating scent marks, especially those of estrus females. Urine from unfamiliar cats is sniffed longer than that of familiar cats.²⁷

Some cats will spray urine during socially stressful situations, such as adding new pets or family members to the home, visits by animals or humans, absences by the owner, and tension between pets or with a family member. While it has been suggested that spraying might allow the cat to be more self-assured (coping mechanism), it is also possible that urine spraying during situations of stress, anxiety, and conflict is a form of displacement behavior.

Besides marking with urine, cats also use secretions from skin glands and paws for communication. In fact, there may be an antagonistic relationship between urine marking and facial marking as application of cheek gland secretions reduces both sexual and reactive urine marking.²⁸

When taking the history of a cat that is spraying, try to identify anything that might elicit a territorial response or make the pet anxious. Spraying is influenced by factors pertaining to the individual (hormones, temperament), environmental stimuli (new roommate, new cat in the neighborhood, remodeling, moving), and relationships with family members and other pets (new baby, absences from home, conflicts, punishment).

Sometimes, the residual scent of another cat can cause the pet to spray. For example, if a visitor has cats at home, a cat may spray the visitor’s coat when it smells the odor of nonresident cats. Also a cat may start spraying around the living-room fireplace if fire logs are brought inside the home that have been sprayed by neighborhood cats (Box 19.3). For prognostic factors see Box 19.4.

Box 19.3

Factors that might influence a cat’s tendency to spray

• Hormones

• Genetics/temperament

• Feline population density (new cats in neighborhood or household)

• Scents from other cats (scent on visitor’s clothes)

• Changes in the environment (new baby, remodeling, new furniture, novel objects)

• New schedule for owner – less time with cat

• Owner absences from the home

• Inappropriate punishment

Box 19.4

Factors affecting the prognosis of resolving a urine marking problem

• Cause of the problem

• Duration of the problem

• Frequency of marking incidents

• Number of areas and surfaces marked

• Number of cats in the home

• Ability to identify and control access to arousing stimuli

• Environmental control – practicality and limitations

• Temperament of the pet

• Owner commitment/expectations – human–animal bond

• Health of the pet

• Drug use – efficacy, compliance, and cost

• Consultant’s ability to diagnose and develop a program that suits pet, owner, and household

Treatment

Specific stimuli and environmental changes that trigger marking must first be discovered to determine the protocol required for treatment.²¹ New pets or humans in the cat’s environment, major changes in the environment, changes in the owner’s schedule, and virtually any stressful situation may be underlying causes. The marking of furniture containing another animal or family member’s odor may be a tipoff as to the relationships that might need to be improved.

The main approaches to resolving urine marking involve reducing or avoiding the cat’s exposure to triggering stimuli and altering the cat’s response to the stimuli. Reducing or preventing access to marked sites is often the best initial strategy. If social tension between resident cats is the underlying problem, then their relationship needs to be addressed. Treatment involves one or more of prevention, surgery, environmental management, pheromones, drugs, and perhaps behavior modification.¹⁶ However, behavior modification utilizing desensitization and counterconditioning is generally not practical except when a problem in a relationship might be addressed (e.g., between cats, cat and dog, or cat and humans). Punishment is contraindicated, since anxiety is often the underlying cause of the problem (Table 19.2).

Table 19.2 Treatment of urine marking

Goal	Approach
Keep stimuli away from cat	• Eliminate outdoor stimuli. For example, if outdoor cats are the stimulus for spraying, discourage visits by humane removal or outdoor avoidance devices (e.g.,. motion detector sprinkler, cat repellents) < div class='tao-gold-member'> Only gold members can continue reading. Log In or Register to continue Share this: Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) Related Related posts: Pet selection and the genetics of behavior Complementary and alternative therapy for behavior problems Pharmacologic intervention in behavioral therapy Terminology, behavioral pathology, and the Pageat (French) approach to canine behavior disorders Stay updated, free articles. Join our Telegram channel Tags: Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat Jul 24, 2016 \| Posted by admin in SMALL ANIMAL \| Comments Off on Feline housesoiling Full access? Get Clinical Tree Get Clinical Tree app for offline access Get Clinical Tree app for offline access

Goal

Approach

Keep stimuli away from cat

• Eliminate outdoor stimuli. For example, if outdoor cats are the stimulus for spraying, discourage visits by humane removal or outdoor avoidance devices (e.g.,. motion detector sprinkler, cat repellents)

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Only gold members can continue reading. Log In or Register to continue